SIZE
For men's garments: S[M, L, 1X, 2X, 3X]
(shown in size L with approx 4 inches of ease)
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FINISHED MEASUREMENTS
Chest: 36.75[40.75, 44.5, 48.5, 52.25, 56.25] inches
Length (shoulder to hem): 26.5[27, 28.25, 29, 30, 30.5] inches
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MATERIALS
Fiber
spacer World of Wool Oatmeal BFL [100% Blue Faced Leicester; top]; color: undyed; 24 [27.5, 31.5 , 35, 39.5, 43] ounces.
Finished Yarn:
spacer Ply: 3
spacer Wraps per inch: 9 (final yarn)
spacer Yardage used: 1270 [1440, 1650, 1850, 2080, 2270]yards
Drafting Method:
spacer Short draw worsted
Commercial Yarn Alternative
spacer Cascade Ecological Wool [100% wool; 478 yd/437 m per 250g skein]; color: 8019; 3[3, 4, 4, 5, 5] skeins
gearbox
Spinning Tool: Wee Peggy Spinning Wheel; [single drive, scotch tension]
Recommended needle size
[always use a needle size that gives you the gauge listed below -- every knitter's gauge is unique]
spacer 32- to 46-inch US #8/5mm circular needle
spacer 1 set US #8/5mm double-point needles (or preferred needles for working small circumferences in the round)
Tools
spacer Cable needle
spacer yarn needle
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GAUGE
16.5 sts/24 rows = 4" in stockinette stitch
PATTERN NOTES
[Knitty's list of standard abbreviations and techniques can be found here.]
The beginning of the rnd on the body is located at the center front to make separating for the zipper easier.
cn: cable needle
Cable patterns
2/1LPC: Sl 2 sts to cn and hold in front, p1, k2 from cn.
2/1RPC: Sl 1 st to cn and hold in back, k2, p1 from cn.
2/2LC: Sl 2 sts to cn and hold in front, k2, k2 from cn.
2/2RC: Sl 2 sts to cn and hold in back, k2, k2 from cn.
1/1LC: Knit into 2nd st on left needle, knit into first st on left needle, slip both sts from needle.
1/1RC: K2tog without slipping sts off needle, knit into first st again, slip both sts from needle.
m1L: From the front, lift loop between sts with left needle, knit into back of loop.
m1R: From the back, lift loop between sts with left needle, knit into front of loop.
spacerCharts
The charts for this pattern are very large and fit on a letter-sized page.
Click here and print the resulting page.
DIRECTIONS
spacerBODY
With circular needle, CO 152[168, 184, 200, 216, 232] sts and join to work in the rnd, being careful not to twist sts on needle. Pm for beg of rnd.
Rib Rnd: K2, p2, k6[6, 6, 6, 10, 10], p2, k2[2, 6, 6, 6, 6], (p2, k2) 6[7, 7, 8, 8, 9] times, pm for side "seam", p1, (k2, p2) 18[20, 22, 24, 26, 28] times, k2, p1, pm for side "seam", (k2, p2) 6 [7, 7, 8, 8, 9] times, k2 [2, 6, 6, 6, 6], p2, k6[6, 6, 6, 10, 10], p2, k2.
Rep last rnd 9 times more, slipping all markers.
Cable Set-Up:
Rnd 1: K2, p2, k6[6, 6, 6, 10, 10], p2, k2[2, 6, 6, 6, 6], work Row 1 of Cable Chart 1 across next 18 sts, k6[10, 10, 14, 14, 18], slip marker, knit to marker, slip marker, k6[10, 10, 14, 14, 18], work Row 1 of Cable Chart 2 across next 18 sts, k2[2, 6, 6, 6, 6], p2, k6[6, 6, 6, 10, 10], p2, k2. 164[180, 196, 212, 228, 244] sts
Rnds 2-4: K2, p2, k6[6, 6, 6, 10, 10], p2, k2[2, 6, 6, 6, 6], work next row of Cable Chart 1, k6[10, 10, 14, 14, 18], slip marker, knit to marker, slip marker, k6[10, 10, 14, 14, 18], work next row of Cable Chart 2 across next 18 sts, k2[2, 6, 6, 6, 6], p2, k6 [6, 6, 6, 10, 10], p2, k2.
Cont in patt as established, working Rows 1-4 of charts once, then rep Rows 5-16 of charts until piece measures 17.5[17.5, 18.25, 18.5, 19, 19] inches or desired length to underarm, ending after an even rnd. Do not break yarn. Place body sts on holder.
spacerSLEEVES (Make 2)
With dpns or circular needle, CO 36[40, 44, 46, 48, 50] sts and join to work in the rnd, being careful not to twist sts on needle. Pm for beg of rnd.
Rnds 1-2: K4[6, 6, 6, 7, 7], p2, k4[4, 6, 6, 6, 6], p2[2, 1, 2, 2, 2], k2, p2, k4[4, 6, 6, 6, 8], p2, k2, p2[2, 1, 2, 2, 2], k4[4, 6, 6, 6, 6], p2, k4[6, 6, 6, 7, 7].
Rnd 3: K4[6, 6, 6, 7, 7], p2, k4[4, 6, 6, 6, 6], p2[2, 1, 2, 2, 2], 1/1RC, p2, k4[4, 6, 6, 6, 8], p2, 1/1LC, p2[2, 1, 2, 2, 2], k4[4, 6, 6, 6, 6], p2, k4[6, 6, 6, 7, 7].
Rnd 4: K4[6, 6, 6, 7, 7], p2, k4[4, 6, 6, 6, 6], p2[2, 1, 2, 2, 2], k2, p2, k4[4, 6, 6, 6, 8], p2, k2, p2[2, 1, 2, 2, 2], k4[4, 6, 6, 6, 6], p2, k4[6, 6, 6, 7, 7].
Rep Rnds 3-4 twice more.
Inc Rnd: K1, m1R, work in patt to last st (knitting the knit sts, purling the purl sts, and working cables as established), m1L, k1. 2 sts inc
Work even in patt for 7[7, 5, 3, 3, 3] rnds more.
Rep last 8[8, 6, 4, 4, 4] rnds 11[11, 14, 16, 17, 18] times more, working inc sts in St st. 60[64, 74, 80, 84, 88] sts
Work even in patt until piece measures 18[18.5, 18.5, 19, 19, 19.5] inches from cast on or desired length to underarm, ending on an even rnd and ending before last 5[6, 7, 7, 9, 10] sts of rnd. Place first 5[6, 7, 7, 9, 10] sts and last 5[6, 7, 7, 9, 10] sts (for a total of 10[12, 14, 14, 18, 20] sts) on holder or scrap yarn for underarm. Break yarn, leaving a long tail for grafting, and leave rem sts on separate holder.
spacerJoin Body and Sleeves
Return to body and *work in patt to 5[6, 7, 7, 9, 10] sts before side marker, place next 10[12, 14, 14, 18, 20] sts on holder for underarm (removing marker), pm, work in patt across 50[52, 60, 66, 66, 68] sleeve sts, pm; rep from * once more, work in patt to end. 244[260, 288, 316, 324, 340] sts; 78[84, 90, 98, 102, 108] sts for Front, 66[72, 78, 86, 90, 96] sts for Back, 50[52, 60, 66, 66, 68] sts for each Sleeve
Work even in patt until piece measures 2[2.25, 1.75, 1.25, 1.25, 1.5] inches from joining, ending after an even rnd.
Yoke
Note: Read ahead! Division for zipper and neck shaping beg when raglan dec are still being worked. Cont working cable patt as space permits; when cabling becomes impossible, knit the knits and purl the purls until these sts are dec into raglan shaping.
Initial Raglan Decreases:
Rnd 1: *Work in patt to 3 sts before marker, k2tog, k1, slip marker, k1, ssk; rep from * three times more, work in patt to end of rnd. 8 sts dec
Rnd 2: Work even in patt.
Rep last 2 rnds 17[18, 21, 24, 25, 26] times more. 100[108, 112, 116, 116, 124] sts; 42[46, 46, 48, 50, 54] total sts for Fronts, 30[34, 34, 36, 38, 42] sts for Back, and 14 [14, 16, 16, 14, 14] sts for each Sleeve
Divide for Zipper:
AT THE SAME TIME, when piece measures 5[5.5, 6, 5.5, 6, 6.5] inches from joining, ending after an odd rnd, turn and beg working back and forth in rows in patt, starting and ending at beg of rnd marker (center front) and slipping the first st of every row. Piece measures approx 8[8.5, 9, 9.5, 10, 10.5] inches from joining when initial raglan decreases are complete.
Shape Neck:
When initial raglan dec are complete, cont in patt with raglan dec as established, AT THE SAME TIME, beg on a RS row, BO 9[11, 11, 12, 13, 15] sts at beg of next 2 rows, 6 sts at beg of foll 2 rows, then dec 1 st at beg and end of foll RS row.
Work 1 more WS row in patt.
Break yarn. 44[48, 52, 54, 52, 56] sts; 2 sts for each Front, 24[28, 28, 30, 32, 36] sts for Back, and 8[8, 10, 10, 8, 8] sts for each Sleeve
Collar:
Note: When picking up sts between neck and held body sts, you may need to pick up more than required (work these sts tog to correct st count) to avoid holes.
Next row [RS]: With RS facing, pick up 15[17, 17, 18, 19, 21] sts along right front neck BO, pick up and knit 1[1, 3, 1, 1, 1] st(s) to held body sts, knit across all 44[48, 52, 54, 52, 56] sts on needle, pick up and knit 1 [1, 3, 1, 1, 1] st(s) to left front neck BO, pick up and knit 15[17, 17, 18, 19, 21] sts along left neck BO. 76[84, 92, 92, 92, 100] sts
Row 1 [WS]: (P4, k4) to last 4 sts, p4.
Row 2 [RS]: (K4, p4) to last 4 sts, k4.
Rep last 2 rows until collar measures approx 4.25 inches (or length that will allow approx 2 extra rows above zipper after zipper is set in) from picked up sts. BO loosely.
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FINISHING
Graft underarms and block to measurements. Weave in ends. Carefully pin zipper into neck opening and sew in place.
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